Bada Bagh, Jaisalmer

Bada Bagh, literally meaning the “Big Garden” in Hindi, is among Jaisalmer’s most haunted and historically rich tourist places. This huge complex is located about 6 kms north of the Golden City of Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India, is not your average beautiful green garden of today. The place is a magnificent, tranquil desert necropolis that commemorates the Bhatti dynasty, the erstwhile rulers of Jaisalmer. Exploring Bada Bagh is a way of exposing one to a dramatic visual and historic narrative against an unforgiving yet magnificent Thar Backdrop. It is something that should not be missed by any individual with a keen interest in Rajasthani history, architecture or photography.

About Bada Bagh –

Principally, Bada Bagh is a collection of royal chhatris or memorial graves that were built in honour of the Maharawals or kings and other distinguished members of Jaisalmer’s Bhatti royal dynasty. These are unusual domed pavilions with square or hexagonal bases, common in traditional Rajput architecture. They are totally carved from local yellow sandstone, which happens to be the same stone used to give Jaisalmer Fort its golden honey tint, especially under the desert sun.

These cenotaphs lie in rows up the small hillside, overlooking a once-green oasis in the dry countryside. The architectural styles reflect the region’s rich craftsmanship, with elaborate carvings, elegant domes and pillars. Each chhatri is unique, varying in size to accommodate the deceased’s status and usually contains a marble slab with inscriptions that document the life of the royal, including a symbolic carving, most often a man on a horse, representing the monarch. While the whole traditional garden element is rather less striking these days, the open design and dramatic positioning of the golden chhatris against the endless sky.

History of Bada Bagh –

Beginning from the 16th century CE, Bada Bagh’s history is intricately tied up with Jaisalmer’s royal lineage. This structure was built by Maharawal Jait Singh II, an ancestor of the city’s founder, Maharawal Jaisal Singh.

Jait Singh II commenced the project not for a grave, but for an ambitious work of infrastructure – a huge water dam, known as the Jait Bandh. The dam was raised to conserve rainfall, producing a reservoir, Jaitsar Tank, which made quite a difference in the landscape. The dam allowed fruits and crops, and a mango plantation was grown, therefore turning a desolate tract of desert land into a fruitful one – the original “Big Garden.” It is here that this excellent feat of engineering, combined with the good it brought to the community, is considered one of Maharawal Jait Singh II’s major achievements.

After he died, his son Lunkaran, who ruled from 1530 to 1551, built the first chhatri on the spot overlooking the dam and the newly developed garden. This established a tradition in the Bhatti dynasty, and over time, the site became the royal cremation yard and chhatri complex. Each subsequent death of a ruler and prominent member of the royal family in Jaisalmer led to the addition of one more chhatri, each one unique, according to the individual’s life and rule.

The ritual endured for centuries, into the 20th century. The last chhatri commissioned was for Maharawal Jawahir Singh. Following his death, his son, the next Maharawal, died within a year of assuming the throne. This early death was tragically interpreted as a terrible portent for the place, prompting the irreversible abandonment of any future cenotaph building at Bada Bagh following Indian independence in 194. The halt to work freezes the place in time, leaving the final cenotaph as a melancholy.

Places to visit near Bada Bagh –

Jaisalmer Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the few living forts in the world, with thousands of people inhabiting it. Its mammoth yellow-sandstone walls are breathtaking against the calm memorial at Bada Bagh.

Patwon ki Haveli is a cluster of five sumptuous houses that lie in the city of Jaisalmer and is known for its elaborate façade and excellent architecture, showcasing the opulence of Jaisalmer’s previous merchant class.

Vyas Chhatri, ascribed to the sage Vyasa, is closer to the town of Jaisalmer. It’s a famous sunset point.

Amar Sagar Lake is surrounded by an exquisitely carved pavilion. Though the lake is often dry, the surroundings are scenic and serene.

Lodhurva was the capital of the Bhatti dynasty before Jaisalmer and is known for its beautiful Jain Temple.

Places to eat near Bada Bagh –

Bada Bagh is around 6 km away from the main city, on the way to Ramgarh, so dining options found in its vicinity are small, local shops or tea stalls. Most people schedule their meals either before or after visiting this place.

Restaurants near Jaisalmer Fort – Several rooftop restaurants offer stunning views of the fort, while serving authentic Rajasthani food like Dal Baati Churma, Gatte ki Sabji, among other Continental cuisines.

Roadside dhabas – For a more local and quick lunch, the highway back to Jaisalmer or towards Ramgarh may contain a few small dhabas that provide basic Indian meals and snacks.

Hotel dining – Several good hotels and guesthouses in Jaisalmer have on-site restaurants open to non-residents, serving a wide range of foods in high quality.

Best time for photography at Bada Bagh –

Sunrise or the Golden hour, is perhaps the best time to shoot. The soft golden light of early morning, as the sun rises high in the sky over the chhatris, converts the yellow sandstone into a profound and dazzling gold. Early mornings have the added advantage of less crowding.

Late afternoon and sunset are the most famous times to visit. The setting sun offers long, dramatic shadows and illuminates the entire complex in a flaming, golden-orange tint. The entire experience of a sunset from the top of the cenotaph complex, with the Jaisalmer Fort visible over a distance, is unforgettable.

Conclusion –

Bada Bagh is a magnificent testimony to Jaisalmer’s royal family in terms of historical and architectural achievement. More than just an assortment of cenotaphs, it has a tale that captures royal succession, ambitious desert engineering and the tragic demise of the ancient culture. The eternal beauty photographed during sunrise and sunset hours ensures that the “Big Garden” will always be a timeless spiritual and photographic destination.

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